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Sweet Turns + Apple Pie
Story and Photos by Mike Byrne
It is 8:00 a.m. on a Tuesday morning. Heavenly blue skies caress the ledges and cliffs of Cyclone Mountain, deeply etched in white and granite. At -28 ºC the air crackles, and a thick blanket of snow sparkles like diamonds. Almost reluctantly, I turn away and enter the warmth of Skoki Lodge, with its tingling aromas of a hearty breakfast, and the smiles and chatter of a dozen happy skiers.
Skoki is a winter paradise now somewhat forgotten by locals and travelers alike. Built in 1930 by the Ski Club of the Canadian Rockies, Skoki Lodge is located in the heart of the best backcountry skiing in Canada. In the early days, skiers would take the train to Lake Louise then ski all the way in from the train station.
“That’s how far they were willing to go to find good, safe skiing,” says Lodge
manager Leo Mitzel, adding that Skoki offers a great deal of versatile terrain. “You can go steep and deep, or long and flat.”
My goal today is moderate: a three-hour traverse around Skoki Mountain through mostly thigh-deep powder, followed by a couple of hours wrapped up in a windowsill reading. Above all else, Skoki is cozy, encouraging instant friendships and spontaneous camaraderie. Towards evening, I am lulled from my book by the aroma of grilled halibut, spanakopita, roasted vegetables and freshly baked bread. Dinner is completed with apple pie, followed by a few hours communing by the fireplace, before tumbling into bed in a creaky-floored room warmed by the fireplace below.
As I drift off, I hear the snores of the much more adventurous skiers two doors down. They have tackled Merlin’s Ridge, a rigorous climb about seven kilometres from the Lodge. I remember them raving about the views of the glaciers, the mountain peaks, and the fantastic bowls to ski down on the other side. They’ve been asleep for hours; I’m thinking I’d better be more energetic tomorrow.
Skoki is not for the physically disinclined. Getting there is part of the adventure—they don’t fly people in, they don’t skidoo people in, and dog teams were disbanded decades ago. But you can do as I did: ride up the gondola from the base of Lake Louise Ski Resort, then jump on the chair lift and cruise down to Temple Lodge (more adventurous souls ski down). From Temple Lodge it’s a 12-kilometre trek on ski or snowshoe. Treeless and exposed, Boulder Pass is the first obstacle, at 2,350 metres, and this is where the weather often closes in, with winds rushing along the valley. On good days, the wind is behind you....
From Boulder Pass, I cross Ptarmigan Lake and head up an imposing hill to Deception Pass, at 2,470 metres. Skins are useful here; those on snowshoes make easy work of the hill. From the top of the pass it’s a long, gentle glide down to the lodge, with a few tricky turns to maintain focus.
In summer, Skoki offers a hub for some great hiking and climbing, and the Lodge is almost always full, accommodating 26 people. In winter, however, when the lodge truly sparkles, there is often room for last minute travelers. Personally, I like it that way...quiet, cozy, with a comfortable windowsill after a vigorous day outside.
Call 1-877-253-6888 for reservations and information about Skoki or visit www.skoki.com.
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