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By Craig + Kathy Copeland
Location: Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, about 45
minutes south of Canmore
Snowshoeing Time: 3 to 4 hours
Round Trip: 9 kilometres
Elevation Gain: 315 metres
Difficulty: Easy
Silence. It’s often cited as a reason to visit the backcountry,
and it’s an increasingly valid one as our world grows louder.
Studies show that incessant noise makes people less caring,
less communicative, less reflective and more apt to feel helpless
and powerless.
Ahhh Snowshoeing…
For a sonically soothing experience, strap on a pair of snowshoes
and stride into the woods. You’ll discover a sanctuary of
silence. A temple of tranquility. A cathedral of quietude.
The abundance of hiking trails in and near Canmore provides
a wealth of snowshoeing opportunities. Many of
these trails pose no avalanche danger and minimal challenge,
yet lead to dramatically scenic destinations.
Prime example: Chester Lake. A child can manage it. Yet even
experienced mountaineers are moved by the splendour of the
lake setting. You’ll begin on a former logging road reincarnated
as a hiking/cross-country skiing/showshoeing trail. It’s broad,
smooth, not too steep, quickly and easily dispatched while
enjoying glimpses of the surrounding peaks. Above a regenerating
clearcut, you’ll enter mature forest, then level out in a
sprawling meadow. Just beyond is the lake. Swooping above
the southeast shore is the sheer, soaring face of Mt. Chester.
And all around is a great, snowy, silent wilderness.
What to Bring
Snowshoes are an ancient means of attaining flotation. By
distributing your weight over a broad area, they prevent your
feet from sinking deeply into the snow. But snowshoes have
recently evolved impressively. They’re now smaller, lighter,
much more comfortable. With a pair of ski poles in hand, learning
to snowshoe is as easy as building a snowman. In Canmore,
you can rent snowshoes for $15 a day and a pair of ski poles
for $3 a day at Gear Up, 1302 Bow Valley Trail, across from
the hospital.
Dress and pack for snowshoeing much as you would if going
skiing. You’ll want a couple of insulating, moisturewicking
baselayers for your legs and torso, so you can adjust exertion.
Pants and a jacket—thin, light, windproof, waterproof—are
the outwear essentials. Also bring a toque, sunglasses, and
warm gloves. Carry them in your daypack, along with sunscreen,
a couple litres of water, a few highenergy snacks, and a hearty
lunch. A headlamp and a firstaid kit are always a good idea
in case of emergency.
Getting There
From downtown Canmore, follow signs leading uphill to the
Canmore Nordic Centre. Reset your trip odometer to zero and
continue ascending on Smith-Dorrien / Spray Trail (Highway
742). Pavement soon ends. After crossing Whiteman’s Gap, proceed
generally southeast. At 41.5 kilometres—just past Mud Lake,
and across from Burstall day-use area—turn left (east) into
the enormous Chester Lake trailhead parking lot at 1,910 metres.
The Trail
From the northeast corner of the parking lot (above the toilets
and info kiosk), pass the gate and head north on an old logging
road. In a few minutes, you will reach a junction. Veer left
(northeast) and cross Chester Creek (bridged). Likewise, go
left at all subsequent junctions. The road climbs at a moderate
grade among Engelmann spruce and alpine fir.
At 1,942 metres, about 10 minutes up, reach a signed junction.
Turn left (northwest), as the hiker sign directs. At 2,073
metres, about 30 minutes up, French Creek is visible south.
Burstall Pass is southwest. Just north of it is Smuts Pass.
A few minutes farther, bear left (northeast) at the next
junction, where right leads south. Your general direction
of travel is northeast. At 2.2 kilometres the road narrows
to a wide trail. It soon levels at 2,140 metres in a small
meadow. You’ve now traveled about 45 minutes. Ups and downs
remain minimal and gentle the rest of the way. Meadows and
trees alternate.
Descend into a large, bumpy meadow at 2.7 kilometres. Looking
north-northeast you can see 3,185-metre Mt. Galatea at the
head of Three Lakes Valley. From the next meadow, Mt. Chester
is visible east. The trail then slips back into forest for
10 minutes before emerging in another meadow.
At four kilometres enter a sweeping meadow below Mt. Chester.
The peaks forming Chester Lake cirque are in view. Left (north-northeast,
dividing Chester Lake from Three Lakes Valley) is 2,985-metre
Gusty Peak. Ahead (northeast) is the 3,000-metre Fortress.
Right (east) is 3,054-metre Mt. Chester. Behind you (south-southwest)
is French Glacier, between Mounts Robertson and French.
An elevated pit toilet on the left heralds your arrival at
Chester Lake. Reach the southwest shore, near a footlog over
the outlet stream, at 4.5 kilometres, 2,220 metres. Fleet-footed
trekkers will be here about 1.5 hours after departing the
trailhead.
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The Guidebook
Backcountry Body Language
Dance Monkey Dance
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